Christen Coomer, Studio Jeweler | deojewelry.com



Mar 04 2023On the occasion of turning 50Remember life



Memento mori



Mexican amber, freshwater pearl, my own hair, oxidized sterling silver, 2023. Exhibited in Bring on the Gems at SNAG x Tuscon in 2023.


When I was a teenager, I stood in front of Odilon Redon's winged heads at the Art Institute of Chicago and felt something shift. My father saw my excitement and bought me the exhibition catalog. I have returned to those images for decades.

This pendant is built from things I have carried.

The focal point is Mexican amber, carved into a coffin-like shape. I brought the material home from Chiapas, where I studied amber carving alongside traditional artists of the craft. Backing it, visible through the amber as if embedded, is a lock of my own hair — saved during college, as part of a narrative photography course that asked me to reckon with my own body and history. I kept it without knowing why, until now.

The winged figure references Redon. The pearl skull I carved myself, having never done it before — learning the task because the piece required it, as evidence of a life of perpetual study.

Memento mori means remember death. On the occasion of turning 50, I made this to remember a life in progress.

The brooch is a companion piece in the form of a craft sampler, deliberately left incomplete. Where the pendant is personal and singular, the brooch is meant to be worn by anyone. One says remember death. The other says I am still learning.